Striking the human body must be considered dangerous. As I am neither a medical nor a legal professional, the
following is offered as my opinion only, not a recommendation for any activity. Nothing can possibly replace
personal experience and learning directly from those who have been there before. There are now workshops and
demonstrations available in larger cities, avail yourself of one. I have no control over the use of this information,
use it at your own risk. And as ever, proceed with caring.
WITH WHAT?-
A 'flogger' shall remain for the moment 'any flexible many-tailed striking tool where the tails are
simple strips of leather or similar substances, designed for use on the human body'. In short, not
bullwhips, braided cat-o-nines, crops, scourges, thudtoys and such, simply floggers. A braided cat is
similar to a flogger in many respects, yet has a distinct 'feel', both these and floggers with knotted ends
are left for another discussion.
As floggers were less available in former days, many people made their own in various styles and
weights. Even if you are not doing so, some basic principles of design might help you select a superior
one from the regrettably large supply of the other sort. I shall not include specific designs, the subject
has been done to death before, and they are readily available elsewhere. As Janet Heartwood has
provided excellent information in her 'Heartwood Catalog', I have used a similar format in my
materials listing below. Although I have not ordered from her and can give no opinion, her wares seem
well received among posters here.
Design notes-
For any given force, the smaller the contact area that force is concentrated in, the greater the potential
for damage. Think of a knife edge as the extreme case. This is why quality flogger tails have rounded
edges and tips; although sharp edges require less work and are less expensive, rounded edges are
preferable.
The wider the tail, the more surface area to be forced through the air, and again, the more lands at
once on the skin. As a general rule for the same material, thin tails 'sting', wide tails 'thud'. Thin,
rounded thong tails sting much more than 5/8 inch wide flat tails, for example.
If all things are equal, the more tails a flogger has, the slower it travels, and the longer the tails are,
the more leverage is gained. Both of the above make a flogger heavier, but the longer tails can make it
disproportionately more difficult to control, therefore many of the 'standard' floggers have tail lengths
between 15 and 22 inches. It is possible to do quite interesting things with a long flogger, such as laying
it down an entire back at once, but this is not recommended for beginners as it can take serious
practise to do well. Very short floggers have special uses for close work, one nipple at a time, that sort
of thing. Floggers with perhaps 15 to 25 tails are average, twice that makes a heavier version of the
same design.
For safety, flogger tails must remain fixed to the end of the handle; this region is where the most stress
occurs in use. A good covering knot will help reduce this strain, and keep the tails together. The handle
must work with your hand, not against it, neither too large nor small for a proper grip, and a knot or
swelling near the end of the flogger serves to prevent slippage. Short handles are better for control,
longer handles provide more leverage. The weight of the handle must feel 'right' with the tails
[something one must feel, not read about. If the sellers will not allow a cautious swing of prospective
purchases, find another shop].
Beyond weight, width and length, the materials matter most. I have personal experience only with the
following, perhaps others may share their knowledge as well. A selection from the below provides a
range of severity and feelings from 'did you start yet?' to 'Omigod!'. Again in general, the softer and
lighter the material, the safer it is [the harder/longer it may be used without risk], and the softer it
feels. As ever, *the RESPONSIBLE TOP TESTS each implement on hirself before it touches a
bottom, and checks for breakage or other safety problems before each use.*
Material List-
An ounce or two of loosely twisted cotton wool in a pillowcase folded lengthwise- this and the next two
have been useful for those with no experience with flogging, yet much interest. Quite safe, I originally
tested mine by repeated strikes to my own face with no effect.
Chamois- a more permanent version of the above, a 3/8 inch tail width 20-tail is a specialized tool for
flogging either a complete novice or one who prefers nearly no sensation. Noise, a very light skin-level
sensation, and nothing else, tested as above. Of course it may also cause hir to look back at you and
ask if that is all you plan on doing....
Fabric- silk and other softer fabrics can be made into floggers. Avoid fraying of edges by sewing the
fabric into closed tubes, ironing each tube flat, then sewing the flat sides together along the long axis.
Similar to chamois, more decorative colors available, and many fabrics are washable.
Deerskin- soft and caressing, a tiny bit of sting, a bit of thud, and little else. Unless one is hitting
exceptionally hard, a deerskin flogger can be used for a very long time without any notable skin
reactions beyond a light flush. My personal favorite for light play or the less experienced.
Light Nylon Cordage [1/8 inch diameter for a start]- Take 15 loops 34 inches long [circumference],
tying them together in a knot at one end. Cut the other end [tail length now perhaps 15 inches], fray the
cut ends and attach to a handle. Two sensations, a very light one from brushing with the tips alone, and
a heavier one from the non-frayed section. Simple to clean, quite inexpensive, and different weights of
cord are readily available.
Elkhide- heavier than Deerskin, yet soft and compressible, almost entirely thud. A lovely flogger for a
slow building scene, very easy to relax into, and can be used with astonishing force with little risk of
harm.
The next three are varieties of cowhide, the 'standard' leather. These are not specific cuts or tanning
terms, but are classes of weight and type.
Suede- in the lighter varieties, slightly harder than Elk, in the heaviest, just below the thick Topgrain
below. Many floggers are made from various suede 'splits', these are inexpensive and simple to work.
More thud and more sting than those above, may mark if swung sharply.
Topgrain leather- smooth leathers create less friction than suedes, yet usually feel more 'sting-y' on
the skin. Available in many weights, from light garment leathers to heavy saddle leathers, the more
flexible varieties are recommended.
Oil tanned thick leather- thick, heavy, and spongy leather, less flexible than thinner skins. Feels
rather like an extremely heavy Elk as it compresses, yet a far more 'serious' thud.
Bison- Interesting rough grain, heavy, rather inflexible, unless careful attention is taken the edges
may cut the skin. Not a material for the beginner, but certainly something to use if desired.
Rubber- flexible, yet quite 'harsh' feeling, stings rather like a thong flogger, leaves immediate marks.
Different weight to air resistance ratio than any leather I am aware of. Exceptionally simple to clean.
Horsehair- Extreme sting with no thud, entirely skin-level sensation of a very intense and itching sort.
It is possible to break skin with horsehair, and it creates deceptively intense stinging at a very light
touch. Cleanliness and body fluid precautions are required here, IMO.
Additionally, most of these have tactile and scent qualities that may attract some, with the exception of
the pillowcase, fabric, nylon, and the oil-tanned leather [much of which smells rather nasty]. All except
the pillowcase may be made into floggers that look rather nice, and all of the above are now available
ready-made through shops and catalogues.
Technique-
Much has been discussed, experienced, debated, and counter-debated here and elsewhere on this
personal topic, but as this is intended as a generic suggestion for the beginner, perhaps there is a
possibility we might avoid the usual flamewar-of-the-moment? Of course it would be wonderful if others
would add their own ideas to this basic outline [subtle hint].
WHERE?
Where to flog? Where not?-
As 'flogging' is something that covers much by way of different activities, I have taken the liberty of
separating it into 'light' [entirely sting, no deep tissue effects], and 'heavy' [sting and/or thud, reaching
and jarring deep tissue]. *Hint* it is impossible to do 'heavy' flogging with a 20-tail chamois flogger,
and quite difficult to do 'light' flogging with anything over deerskin in the materials progression cited
above [with the exception of horsehair, again a sting-only material].
Of course all of these are merely physical *possibilities* rated solely on my own opinions of [relative]
safety, all limits and preferences of top and bottom must also be considered.
Where not to flog *under any circumstances* [obvious safety reasons]-
The face, head, neck, the fingers and toes, over healing skin [if you want it to ever heal].
Where to flog *extremely* lightly and carefully if at all [Really a gentle brushing motion
rather than a striking one, tips of a *light* stinging instrument only, such as the chamois or horsehair
above]-
The palms and back of the hands, over any joint, the lower front and back and sides between the top of
the pelvis and the lower ribs [kidneys and other internal organs], the spine, the tops and bottoms of the
feet.
N.B. Both feet and hands contain many tiny bones, once broken, these rarely heal well. Joints do not
respond well to stress internal or external. Crippling is neither safe nor sane, and unless one has an
X-ray machine at call one cannot tell. Internal organs are more fragile than one might think, avoid thud
entirely in their area. Many people have particular problems with body areas as well, do attempt the
above *very* lightly indeed if at all!
Where to flog lightly-
Lower legs, arms, inner arms, breasts, genitals [skin is more fragile there], upper shoulders [accuracy],
top of buttocks near spine, the muscular ridge on both sides of the spine [accuracy], the ribs where not
protected by muscle.
N.B. There is some evidence that 'thud' on the female breast is not advisable for reasons of health,
nipples are far better suited to strong stimulation. The top of the buttocks protect the coccyx, a small
and fragile triangular bone at the base of the spine, avoid striking between the upper buttocks.
Where to flog 'heavily'-
Buttocks, upper back on each side of the spine, thighs, lower shoulders. These areas are principally
composed of strong bones protected by muscle tissue and a fatty layer, any other organs present are
reasonably protected. There are reasons for these traditional areas being so traditional, they reduce
the likelihood of major damage, making an extended safer session possible.
Position considerations-
Body position affects the position of both skin and muscles. If someone is bent over, the muscles of the
rear lengthen and are not as thick, so the muscles themselves no longer protect in the same way. If the
skin is stretched as well, it will feel more than it would if relaxed. Flogging someone who is standing
unsupported may lead to falling, and seems foolish given the known physiological and psychological
effects ['going away']. Standing bondage changes without warning to partial suspension if someone
faints, plan for that possibility.
HOW?-
Technique repertoire-
The more ways one knows to do an action, the more effects may be created, and the less one's arm
aches afterwards. Varying the motions has a good effect for top and bottom. Practise the following until
you can do them from various directions and speeds, they all feel and work differently. Knowing the
techniques is only one part, knowing which to use and when is beyond my ability to suggest in a post.
Swinging styles-
I know of four basic ways to end a stroke of any force:
[1] The tails land 'flat', with all of the force hitting at once [the tails either bounce off or drop almost
vertically after this].
[2] The tails swing 'through', with the some part of the tips hitting and moving past the target area.
From there, you may stop them [see 'Accuracy-' below], or use some elliptical pattern to bring them
round again, such as vertical or horizontal figure-8, circle, and the like.
[2a] The tail tips strike, go past, then immediately return via
a swift spinning motion. If fast enough, this can seem
continuous and the light, sharp touch has some sensational
advantages.
[3] The tails are snapped or 'whipped' for a smaller point of stimulation that is more discrete and feels
'sharper'.
[4] The tails land all at once on the body in a strongly forward motion resembling a punch or push more
than a swing. Difficult to describe, and not as common, a hard thud stroke.
Each of these and all their variations may be primarily accomplished by wrist motion alone, or with arm
and wrist moving together, this depends on your strength and the effect you seek. A properly balanced
flogger requires less effort, and may be used for a longer time with less fatigue.
Skill-
I would like to add my voice to [I believe] Mauser's previous post on this, bad technique is simply
inexcusable; although we are all fallible, misplacing a stroke is not something to be taken lightly. There
is indeed an art to the physical act of flogging. This may be learned as any other physical art, by
observation, thought, and practise.
Practise in the air will teach you the balance of a flogger, but there is no substitute for actual impact. I
believe it was STella who suggested a velvet pillow, and another person suggested suspending it in a
way that allowed for movement. This works nicely, a safe and useful simulation.
If you rarely find velvet pillows strewn about, a towel wrapped round a pillow will serve the same
purpose, you will see the path of the flogger tails quite nicely in the nap of the fabric. When you are
able to land all the tails in one area on the pillow, practise moving that aiming point about until you
know exactly where it will land each time. Now practise varying the speed, pace and strength of the
blows without sacrificing that accuracy. When you have that in balance, try these variations on your
own leg, get the feel of that specific instrument, *then* consider using it on the willing form of another.
Accuracy-
A flogger [as opposed to a crop or whip] 'flops around more', it naturally covers a wider area and is
more difficult to control. If one avoids any spin on the handle, the first stroke may be accurate with the
tails close together. Unfortunately the next ones tend to be less so unless some care is taken with the
tails between strokes. The tails may be caught in the free hand between strokes, allowed to wrap
gently on the top's torso or leg to gather them together, or hang straight down between strokes. Any of
these options will make the next stroke more accurate as the tails will at least start together. It is
possible to stop them in mid-air as well, but more difficult to cause them to swing together. With
practise, a well-made flogger that is 2 inches in diameter with the tails gathered together may be
precisely placed within a 3 to 4 inch target path.
As a suggestion for beginners, start with the bottom reclining face down and the top kneeling or
standing a-straddle, thus allowing gravity to assist in the guidance of the tails.
Swinging at a body part that protrudes ensures accuracy. The buttocks of a standing bottom whose
entire front is pressed against a rigid support are a classic example of this, a straight side-to-side swing
with the tips of a flogger can strike only the intended area, leaving the lower back and upper thighs
untouched. Costuming may help as well, certain corsets may provide some protection for the kidneys,
and may act as a sort of armor against mishap.
Wrapping-
If the middle section of tails strikes first on a rounded 'edge' of the body, and the tips 'wrap' following
the curve, the tips actually accelerate far more than the original swing [physics, try it on something
inanimate and see]. This is 'wraparound', and is usually a bad thing, causing inadvertent hard blows to
areas one did not intend to touch at all, or ruining the controlled stroke one did intend. Keeping the
flogger handle the same distance away from the skin as you did in practise will help here, as will being
very careful to plan where the tips will fall at each stroke, avoiding curved edges to wrap around.
Being 'tip conscious' is the best way to avoid wraparound, but placing a pillow to protect the side of a
reclining bottom works as a temporary solution for those who have this problem [works neatly with
'whippy' canes and crops as well].
IN SCENE-
How often?-
An average of one stroke every few seconds often proves best, with the exception of the spinning
technique above, a fast version of which will seem constant. This 'blow-rest-blow' allows processing
time to feel each sensation, and this rhythm once established may easily be changed for effect. No
doubt some people will differ with me on this, but I maintain that it is a suitable pace to maintain in
many cases. Increased speed near the end is also popular, and pacing oneself early on will allow for
that.
Scene Structure-
Different people seek to give and receive different experiences. I offer two quite diverse scenarios to
begin the discussion, perhaps others might volunteer their own favorite experiences or methods.
The slowly building endorphin encouragement-
Start slowly and lightly, begin by placing the flogger on the skin, holding the tail tips in one hand and
the handle in the other, moving slowly to and fro on the skin. Then a slow caress with the tips for a bit,
using more and more of the tails in a soft motion, building the movement into a partial swing, then a full
swing. Vary placement gradually, work up and down the body in a methodical pattern with few
surprises. When changing to a 'harder' flogger, repeat the above 'accustomization' process in minature,
the ideal being that although the actual force applied increases markedly, the 'feeling' remains much
the same, matching the growing ability of the bottom to enjoy the increasing sensations. In a person
looking for this, it is often possible to cause a 'flying' sensation of complete relaxation, buoyed by trust
and natural reactions of the body to slowly increasing stimulation, with little or no feeling of actual
'pain'.
The overwhelming sensation-
More of a 'hard' style than the above, to take a bottom past the 'comfortable' area into one more likely
to push hir strongly. Useful for 'sensation overload' and for those who seek a more 'painful' feeling.
Beginning as above, vary the speed and intensity of the blows much more, pushing more, being less
predictable. Work upper body and lower at seemingly random times, not allowing the bottom to grow
used to the sensation before moving on. When changing instruments, do so with less subtlety, let hir
feel the change as an increase in intensity. Should sie enjoy both sting and thud, use these
interchangeably as well, surprise is often more effective than merely increasing the power of blows.
Emotional and other considerations [IMO]-
A few suggestions in this admittedly most subjective area. A flogging of even the gentlest sort may
have exceptionally strong effects on both participants; leaving time and energy to 'wind down' at the
end of the session is, in my view, a requirement. Reassurance, a caress, or a simple touch during the
flogging may do wonders also. Do not expect verbal responses if the flogging takes the bottom into new
areas, sie may not be possible to speak readily, and it may be that sie will not be hearing well either. I
find that flogging the front of the body, use of ear plugs and blindfolds, stringent bondage to open up
delicate body areas, and making the bottom look at hirself being flogged all are more 'serious' and
have more emotional impact than a 'simple' flogging. Bruises may appear immediately, not appear at
all, or suddenly appear after as much as a day or two, depending on the body concerned, and most
people have some reaction to such marks, whether positive or not.
Philosophy-
Flogging can be a powerful and loving act, top and bottom not separated by the flogger, but connected
through it. While basic competence and sensitivity will increase the chances of this, caring does help a
bit too.
*All rights to "Grim's Flogging FAQ" are reserved by the author. |
